“Adeus Almada”

Today is our last full day of our perfect month in Portugal.

The kids don’t want to leave. Dave & I don’t want to leave! Here are some of the things we will miss.

· We’ve loved Old Almada, our neighbourhood, flanked by river, port and sea. It really does pulse with history and chaos. Even last night, as we climbed down near the river to throw a Frisbee, we stumbled across another castle – anywhere from 400 to 800 years old, but no pomp or ceremony, not marked on any map, or tourist guide. Barely any signage. It was just part of the crazy, hilly, narrow, winding cobbled-streets – nothing special.

· The easy pace and warm generosity of the Portuguese people. Isobel has often commented “that person looks angry”, but before she has ended the sentence, another local has pinched her cheeks or ruffled her hair, and someone has kindly tried to tell us directions (which we don’t understand). Isobel is right – sometimes they do seem like a morose lot, and we have experienced some terrible customer service, but when it’s time to relax and kick-back, they come into their own. Every evening, the chairs from the local cafes and pastelarias find their way out onto the sidewalk as does the entire population from our neighbourhood apartments. And there seems to be no division between the generations... even the 4-year-olds are out until midnight or later in the summer. The mood is festive and warm.

· The easy access to stunning coastline. In one direction there are miles of clean, sandy beaches with kid-sized surf (covered with bodies). In another, sheltered beaches nestled in beyond town-squares. And a little further out, stunning National Parks with Rottnest-coloured water and dramatic cliffs. This surprised us the most – we knew about the great beaches of the South where thousands of Brits and Germans head every year for a roasting. But Lisbon’s beaches were an added bonus!

· Tom’s favourite bit was hiring racing-buggies to ride in a park near the museums.

· Isobel loved the Almanda Arts Festival – up late every night for a week listening to live world-music outside in a park.

· Dave loves the port... that’s the drink, not the one with ships. (so do I!)